That Olive Oil You Just Bought Was Probably Mislabeled — Or Was It?
Olive oil experts disagree about the severity of olive oil mislabeling but fraud is an
undeniable issue
undeniable issue
Feb 3, 2016 | 2:23 pm
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The label on your bottle of olive oil may not be entirely truthful.
But does that really mean the entire olive oil industry is corrupt?
But does that really mean the entire olive oil industry is corrupt?
Counterfeit bottles of olive oil; an industry subtly controlled by
the Sicilian mafia; an olive oil producer whose car was set on fire
because he dared to speak out against fraud within his industry…
The plot has all the makings of a Hollywood thriller, and that’s
probably why the recent 60 Minutes episode “Agromafia”
was one of themost popular investigative pieces on the show
this season.
the Sicilian mafia; an olive oil producer whose car was set on fire
because he dared to speak out against fraud within his industry…
The plot has all the makings of a Hollywood thriller, and that’s
probably why the recent 60 Minutes episode “Agromafia”
was one of themost popular investigative pieces on the show
this season.
But olive oil corruption is not an action movie; it’s an everyday,
complex reality for olive oil producers, distributors, and enthusiasts.
Many olive oil industry experts will tell you that the mislabeling of extra-virgin
versus regular virgin olive oil is much more common than outright
egregious counterfeiting of olive oil, in which chlorophyll and olive
scent is added to some lesser oil, poured into a fancy jar printed with
Italian words, and sold at market rates.“I don’t like the word 'fake,'”
says Alexandra Kicenik Devarenne, an independent olive oil consultant
and founder of the non-profit trade association the Extra Virgin
Alliance. “It makes for a good sensationalist headline, doesn’t it?
The word 'adulterated' is thrown around too much, too. What really
is happening is that 70 percent of the olive oil you see on the market
is mislabeled as extra-virgin…. Italy has become the poster child for
olive oil fraud. The world is watching Italy, and they’re finally starting
to take action.”
complex reality for olive oil producers, distributors, and enthusiasts.
Many olive oil industry experts will tell you that the mislabeling of extra-virgin
versus regular virgin olive oil is much more common than outright
egregious counterfeiting of olive oil, in which chlorophyll and olive
scent is added to some lesser oil, poured into a fancy jar printed with
Italian words, and sold at market rates.“I don’t like the word 'fake,'”
says Alexandra Kicenik Devarenne, an independent olive oil consultant
and founder of the non-profit trade association the Extra Virgin
Alliance. “It makes for a good sensationalist headline, doesn’t it?
The word 'adulterated' is thrown around too much, too. What really
is happening is that 70 percent of the olive oil you see on the market
is mislabeled as extra-virgin…. Italy has become the poster child for
olive oil fraud. The world is watching Italy, and they’re finally starting
to take action.”
The number thrown around a lot by olive oil professionals, and in
the 60 Minutes report is 70 percent — as in, 70 percent of olive oil
on the shelves is inauthentic in some way. This number comes from
a study released by a UC Davis consumer research group in
2010 which found that approximately 69 percent
of extra-virgin olive oils in retail channels did not pass sensory tests
to meet the strict standards that designation requires. The study,
however, was questioned by a group of lawyers who believed
that the results were “wildly inconsistent”and would not hold up in
a courtroom.
the 60 Minutes report is 70 percent — as in, 70 percent of olive oil
on the shelves is inauthentic in some way. This number comes from
a study released by a UC Davis consumer research group in
2010 which found that approximately 69 percent
of extra-virgin olive oils in retail channels did not pass sensory tests
to meet the strict standards that designation requires. The study,
however, was questioned by a group of lawyers who believed
that the results were “wildly inconsistent”and would not hold up in
a courtroom.
A more recent anecdotal study, released in 2015 by the National
Consumers League, found that six out of 11 bottles (about 55 percent)
of extra-virgin olive oil from four major retailers (Whole Foods Market,
Trader Joe’s, Safeway, and Giant) failed to meet extra-virgin requirements.
That study has not been discredited. Anecdotally, David Neuman, an olive
oil expert and CEO of GAEA North America, a specialty food company,
wagers that number is likely closer to 80 percent.
Consumers League, found that six out of 11 bottles (about 55 percent)
of extra-virgin olive oil from four major retailers (Whole Foods Market,
Trader Joe’s, Safeway, and Giant) failed to meet extra-virgin requirements.
That study has not been discredited. Anecdotally, David Neuman, an olive
oil expert and CEO of GAEA North America, a specialty food company,
wagers that number is likely closer to 80 percent.
“The day I started in this industry, I knew that fraud was a serious
problem,” Neuman said. “It’s nothing new. This has been going on
for thousands of years. The crazy thing is that these people don’t
think they’re doing the wrong thing. It’s generational. They’re raised
in this world of making something and calling it something else.
Olive oil is an easy sell. Put it in a fancy bottle, slap an Italian name
on it, and it will sell like Kraft mac n’ cheese. There’s no incentive
for grocery stores to get the good stuff.”
problem,” Neuman said. “It’s nothing new. This has been going on
for thousands of years. The crazy thing is that these people don’t
think they’re doing the wrong thing. It’s generational. They’re raised
in this world of making something and calling it something else.
Olive oil is an easy sell. Put it in a fancy bottle, slap an Italian name
on it, and it will sell like Kraft mac n’ cheese. There’s no incentive
for grocery stores to get the good stuff.”
Neuman explained that as an olive oil expert or even a layman, you
could walk into a grocery store, pick up a bottle of olive oil, take a
whiff, and immediately sense the difference. Adulterated oil, he said,
will smell waxy, slick, or even like stinky feet. With real extra-virgin
olive oil, you’ll immediately be overpowered by the strong scent of
pepper and freshly-cut grass. Although it’s almost impossible to nail
down a definitive percentage of authentic olive oils, the proof is in
consumer reviews. In blind taste tests, Neuman says, consumers will
often pick out or prefer the diluted or fake stuff because that’s what
they’re used to.
could walk into a grocery store, pick up a bottle of olive oil, take a
whiff, and immediately sense the difference. Adulterated oil, he said,
will smell waxy, slick, or even like stinky feet. With real extra-virgin
olive oil, you’ll immediately be overpowered by the strong scent of
pepper and freshly-cut grass. Although it’s almost impossible to nail
down a definitive percentage of authentic olive oils, the proof is in
consumer reviews. In blind taste tests, Neuman says, consumers will
often pick out or prefer the diluted or fake stuff because that’s what
they’re used to.
Central Market, a Texas-based grocery store chain, he said, is the
only major grocery store that he knows of that wiped each and every
questionable olive oil brand off the shelves, and will require a certificate
of lab-tested authenticity from the oils it sells starting March 31. But
not everyone feels that olive oil inauthenticity is a rampant problem
in the industry. The North American Olive Oil Association, a
non-for profit trade organization that represents most major olive oil
companies in North America, has maintained that the claims made in
the documentary are largely exaggerated.“What really surprised us is
this claim that 70 to 80 percent of extra-virgin olive oil is fake,” said Eryn
Balch, executive vice president of the NAOOA. “Our tests indicate anything
but. We actually are the only entity in North America taking samples on
a regular basis and sending them for testing overseas. We rarely find a
problem.”“But ask her if they test for sensory defects, or just do chemical
testing,” David Neuman suggested. He claims that most olive oils will pass
a chemical test because the chemistry is fairly simple, but it’s a lot more
difficult for subpar olive oil to pass a sensory test that uses a panel of olive
oil experts.“This may vary depending on the purpose of the testing, but for
our Seal program [recognizing NAOOA members in good standing], we do
both chemical and sensory and to check for adulteration we always perform
the full chemical tests,” Balch responded. “We would caution against claims
made by tasters or groups not recognized by the International Olive Council– quality checks are not sufficient to detect adulteration.”
only major grocery store that he knows of that wiped each and every
questionable olive oil brand off the shelves, and will require a certificate
of lab-tested authenticity from the oils it sells starting March 31. But
not everyone feels that olive oil inauthenticity is a rampant problem
in the industry. The North American Olive Oil Association, a
non-for profit trade organization that represents most major olive oil
companies in North America, has maintained that the claims made in
the documentary are largely exaggerated.“What really surprised us is
this claim that 70 to 80 percent of extra-virgin olive oil is fake,” said Eryn
Balch, executive vice president of the NAOOA. “Our tests indicate anything
but. We actually are the only entity in North America taking samples on
a regular basis and sending them for testing overseas. We rarely find a
problem.”“But ask her if they test for sensory defects, or just do chemical
testing,” David Neuman suggested. He claims that most olive oils will pass
a chemical test because the chemistry is fairly simple, but it’s a lot more
difficult for subpar olive oil to pass a sensory test that uses a panel of olive
oil experts.“This may vary depending on the purpose of the testing, but for
our Seal program [recognizing NAOOA members in good standing], we do
both chemical and sensory and to check for adulteration we always perform
the full chemical tests,” Balch responded. “We would caution against claims
made by tasters or groups not recognized by the International Olive Council– quality checks are not sufficient to detect adulteration.”
Nonetheless, both Alexandra Kicenik Devarenne and David Neuman
expressed doubt over the authenticity of big name olive oil brands. Last
year, three major brands imported into the U.S., Filippo Berio, Carapelli,
and Bertolli, faced a class-action lawsuit alleging that their oils were
neither extra-virgin nor entirely made in Italy as labels suggested (the suit
has not been resolved). In November, prosecutors in Turin launched a major investigation into the labeling practices of seven producers, including Carapelli
and Bertolli.
expressed doubt over the authenticity of big name olive oil brands. Last
year, three major brands imported into the U.S., Filippo Berio, Carapelli,
and Bertolli, faced a class-action lawsuit alleging that their oils were
neither extra-virgin nor entirely made in Italy as labels suggested (the suit
has not been resolved). In November, prosecutors in Turin launched a major investigation into the labeling practices of seven producers, including Carapelli
and Bertolli.
The producers categorically deny the allegations. Speaking on behalf
of Bertolli, public relations representative Ron Bottrell told The Daily Meal
that “Our olive oil meets and exceeds the rigorous and exacting standards
of the International Olive Council (IOC) and European Union (EU), the
only legally binding testing methodologies for the designation of extra
virgin olive oil. Importantly, all of our olive oil must pass our own strict
standards and is both chemically and sensory taste-tested before bottling.
Taste testing by itself is insufficient in many respects and is a subjective
analysis method that cannot be repeated or reproduced.”
of Bertolli, public relations representative Ron Bottrell told The Daily Meal
that “Our olive oil meets and exceeds the rigorous and exacting standards
of the International Olive Council (IOC) and European Union (EU), the
only legally binding testing methodologies for the designation of extra
virgin olive oil. Importantly, all of our olive oil must pass our own strict
standards and is both chemically and sensory taste-tested before bottling.
Taste testing by itself is insufficient in many respects and is a subjective
analysis method that cannot be repeated or reproduced.”
In addition, the NAOOA maintains that their method of independent
testing is enough to assure extra virgin quality. The Daily Meal spoke
with Anna Jané, the technical manager at Lluís Jané Busquets Laboratori
D'Anàlis, an independent laboratory in Barcelona that has worked with
the NAOOA since 2013. “The process of testing olive oils is strictly
regulated by the International Olive Council,” Jané said. “There are two
major tests in order to determine its quality and purity: physicochemical,
and organoleptic tests, or quality tests of odor and taste determined by
expert members of the IOC.”
testing is enough to assure extra virgin quality. The Daily Meal spoke
with Anna Jané, the technical manager at Lluís Jané Busquets Laboratori
D'Anàlis, an independent laboratory in Barcelona that has worked with
the NAOOA since 2013. “The process of testing olive oils is strictly
regulated by the International Olive Council,” Jané said. “There are two
major tests in order to determine its quality and purity: physicochemical,
and organoleptic tests, or quality tests of odor and taste determined by
expert members of the IOC.”
If an olive oil claims to be extra-virgin but isn't, that fact will be discovered
at the Busquets laboratory, says Jané, with tests for acidity, peroxide levels,
and absorbency in extra ultraviolet light, among other things. How often
does the lab come across inauthentic oils? “Just occasionally,” said Jané,
which sounds like a far cry from the 70 percent figure presented in the 60 Minutes special. “The reality is that we do not have a mandatory USDA labeling standard for olive oil in this country,” Alexandra Kicenik Devarenne said.
“No one is putting soy bean oil on retail shelves because they won't get away
with it. It's more likely the addition of refined or deodorized olive oil to a
product sold as extra virgin. If we’re talking the proliferation of mislabeled
olive oils, then I would say anyone who says this is not an issue is in
serious denial.”
at the Busquets laboratory, says Jané, with tests for acidity, peroxide levels,
and absorbency in extra ultraviolet light, among other things. How often
does the lab come across inauthentic oils? “Just occasionally,” said Jané,
which sounds like a far cry from the 70 percent figure presented in the 60 Minutes special. “The reality is that we do not have a mandatory USDA labeling standard for olive oil in this country,” Alexandra Kicenik Devarenne said.
“No one is putting soy bean oil on retail shelves because they won't get away
with it. It's more likely the addition of refined or deodorized olive oil to a
product sold as extra virgin. If we’re talking the proliferation of mislabeled
olive oils, then I would say anyone who says this is not an issue is in
serious denial.”
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