Why Some Restaurants Are Walking Back
Their No-Tipping Policies
In recent days, a major
chain and a high-profile New York spot have reversed course on a dining trend
that’s come to be tied to workers’ welfare.
Patrick T. Fallon /
Reuters
ADAM CHANDLER MAY 10, 2016
The movement to eliminate tipping in American restaurants may be
showing its first signs of wear. On Monday, Gabe Stulman, a New York City
restaurateur who joined the growing no-gratuities campaign in December,
announced that hewould be
reinstating the gratuity system at Fedora, his clamorous West
Village haunt. Fedora was Stulman’s first venue to test out a service-included
model, which required higher menu prices.
Meanwhile, last week, far from the island of
Manhattan, the casual-dining chain Joe’s Crab Shack also reduced
its commitment to a gratuity-free model, cutting the number of
outlets participating in the tip-free experiment from 18 to 4.
Both developments are worthy of note, but it’s
this latter one that seems particularly significant. Joe’s Crab Shack was the
first major restaurant chain to tinker with its model. The seafood chain, which
has 130 locations, tested out a service-included model months before the New
York restaurateur Danny Meyercreated a media
furor with the announcement that he would eventually banish
tipping at all of his 13 restaurants and raise menu prices to cover the cost of
service.
“The system has to change at some point, but our
customers and staff spoke very loudly,” said Bob Merritt, CEO of Joe’s Crab
Shack parent company Ignite Restaurant Group, during an
analyst call last week. “And a lot of them voted with their feet.”
According to Merritt, the company’s research revealed
that nearly 60 percent of customers expressed displeasure at the no-tipping
policy, which led to an “8 percent to 10 percent” drop in customer counts. “We
tried it for quite a while, tried communicating it different ways,” Merritt
added.
Like Merritt, Stulman was similarly supportive
of the long-term aspirations for the no-tipping movement. “While we made the
determination that a gratuity-free system does not work for our business at
this time, we continue to believe that it has the potential to change
hospitality for the better.” He added, in
comments toEater, that customers were spending less, and
explained that maintaining the gratuity-free system would have forced him to either
raise menu prices further or cut worker wages, neither of which were
“comfortable” courses of action.
The service-included model has existed for years
in a handful of American restaurants. Its recent coalescence into a bona fide
dining trend last year, however, has dovetailed with efforts to raise the
minimum wage and improve working conditions.
For restaurants, moving away from gratuities is
meant to offer a pay boost for back-of-house workers such as cooks, chefs, and
dishwashers, some of whom arelegally
prohibited from receiving shares of tips. Installing
service-included models also tends to produce steadier pay for servers and
bartenders—apredominantly
female workforce that almost always relies on tips.
Nevertheless, the service-included model is not
universally popular among workers. In other evidence of growing pains, some
discontent was
reported in March among servers at Roman’s, a popular property
in the mini-empire of the Brooklyn restaurant owner Andrew Tarlow, who followed
Meyer’s lead in December by announcing that he would seek to go gratuity-free
by the end of 2016. And, in San Francisco, Thad Vogler reverted
back to accepting gratuity in January after experiencing high
staff turnover among the formerly-tipped when he eliminated gratuity the
previous year. “We couldn't compete in the market,” he told CNN. “We were faced
with the options of raising prices more or bailing out.”
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